Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

A chance encounter during a tube journey in 1988 transformed the trajectory of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the capital's buzzing 1990s cultural landscape, evolving from mannequin to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.

"That time was the height of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I understood we’d be close. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."

Although Enninful appears nostalgic, he is in good company. Lately, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. However since that time, Enninful feels a noticeable regression. "I believe, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he says. "It’s not even this country – it’s worldwide."

A Perceived Regression

This shift is increasingly evident: the rise of populist movements, the backlash against progressive values, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. Replacing the optimism of the previous decade, today a different political force looms as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an symbol of Cool Britannia, has returned as a polarising symbol.

In Enninful's view, the response has consistently been to champion culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the guiding principle behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, featuring a broad spectrum of prominent faces from politics.

"People with a voice should use it," he says, explaining those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain was not a lenient country, if it did not offer my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this period will pass."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He finds hope in the youth of today: "They are far more conscious than we were. They discuss implicit prejudice – I was not even aware what that was."

The beginnings of his career would forge a groundbreaking career characterised by fearlessness and inclusivity. Enninful broke barriers as the first male, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to take the helm at British Vogue. His time featured landmark covers showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Significantly, sales rose.

"Ignoring huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he states.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has recently launched his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his premier initiative since leaving his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "innovator".

"I constantly interrogate the established norms. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, without funds, and I was a minority. I was very shy. My teachers said I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the suspicion laws … this duality gave me a unique perspective on the inside and the outside."

Defying the caricature of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and exudes calm. His path has included its share of adversity, including well-documented battles with mental health and addiction.

He has also endured significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with partial sight. "I was in such a difficult period for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

A Foray into Curation

This drive to be typecast has propelled him beyond the realm that made his name. He is now organising a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a roster of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and highlight those who did not receive a spotlight at the time.

"The establishment sometimes neglected to shine a light on the truly innovative creators because they lacked the right pedigree," he comments.

This project itself functions with a novel business model, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "We ask, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a broader vision."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His story, he feels, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.

What would the Edward of the 90s make of the his current self? He laughs heartily. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be impressed. In those days I was a rebel. I never imagined institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We fled, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have underestimated me my whole career. But nothing can stop me once I’ve decided to do something."